Sunday, October 26, 2008

Barack and Baklava in Istanbul

I just found out today that Turkey recently passed a law to block access to Blogger and was a bit surprised given that I've always heard that this was one of the most democratic nations in the Middle East/Europe! Anyway I ended up flying from Athens to London and then back down to Istanbul because it was cheaper than flying from Greece. Go figure. I had a 3 hour layover in Paris so I decided to take the 45 minute train into town for a quick dinner at, you guessed it, an Indian restaurant! The whole area was full of Indian restaurants so I figured I was safe. I had an excellent samosa, curry, and naan (although it still was not as good as my friend Ravi's mom's back in Hong Kong!) The owner saw that I was reading "The Audacity of Hope" by Barack Obama and he stated matter of factly that he thought he would get assasinated within a year. I was quite distressed by this comment and told him if that happened I'd move to Bulgaria. On my flight from Paris to Istanbul I met Jack, an Istanbul native and we chatted quite a bit about politics, the differences between Western culture and "Eastern" ideologies and why American culture is everywhere in the world. Neither of us had any clear answers but it > was refreshing to question and discuss our differences in a meaningful dialogue without any animosity whatsoever. We exchanged emails and phone numbers and decided to meet later on the week. I arrived late into Istanbul so transportation options were limited to airport shuttles and taxis. Just like LA... Anyway I ended up taking the shuttle since it was more cost efficient. I followed the guy to an unmarked car and then I started to get that weird this-may-not-be-such-a-good-idea feeling. It didnt help that there was another guy who came along with me who insisted, rather politely actually, that I sit in the front. He kindly introduced himself to me and said his name was Abdul from Saudi Arabia, currently living in Holland. Of course the subject of poltics came up again completing the trifecta for the day. Seems as though the whole world is more interested in the outcome of the US election than the average American. I told him at the very least if Obama wins it would make my life just a little less complicated while I continue my travels. He thought Obama wouldn't win because of the color of his skin and I told him if he doesn't win I'm moving to Bulgaria. At this point, given I had just finished his book on the plane, I decided to give it to him. He was very appreciative and thanked me profusely. I would like to think that this small token would give him a better understanding of Obama and how he's captured the hearts and minds of the rest of the world, America, and registered Republicans like myself. Sorry McCain, just as Colin Powell stated, your choice of Palin cost you my consideration. I mean I know she's a hot momma and all but the thought of her in the White House scares the crap outta me. Vladimir Putin, Hugo Chavez, and Kim Jong Il will just posterize her! Excuse the poltics (this is a travel blog, after all!) but I have to mention it given my experiences so far with what the rest of the world has been telling me during the last few months. Anyway..... Istanbul is an amazing and beautiful city. I can't tell you in words how lasting an impression I have after having dinner the first night, outside under the moon, with the cool Marmaran sea breeze blowing gently with the "izam" overheard in the background. The "izam" is the Islamic call to prayer and it occurs five times per day. Here's a video I took: The second day I went wandering around town in the less touristy part of town. I saw a baklava joint just packed with people (ding ding we have a winner, winner chicken dinner!) Turns out this place is the most famous baklava place in Istanbul and is also the first shop opened. http://www.karakoygulluoglu.com/ It was an absolute delight that I just ran into this place. I sat next to Ferhat, who was chomping down on about ten pieces of chocolate baklava. He said he loves eating it (really?) and does so at least three times a week. The place was so good I decided to go back again after dinner. This time I brought a couple I met at the hostel-- Chris from Scotland and Kadri from Estonia who are motorcycling from Scotland to Australia and who also have never tried baklava. Ever. http://www.thewonderfulwandertooz.wordpress.com/ (and you thought MY blog address was long.. Take that Mike, Greg and Louise!) The cool thing about going back the second time in one day is that I saw the same cashier from earlier in the day. He brought out the owner, Mustafa, and we took a picture. I was happy for several reasons that night. First, that I had three more pieces of baklava in my stomach. Secondly, that I deflowered two baklava virgins. Lastly, how often do you get to meet a guy named Mustafa, much less one who is the owner of the first baklava shop in Istanbul? Dr. Evil would be proud...

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